Teething Puppies: Safe Chew Toys and What to Avoid
By dogbowwow · Updated November 2, 2026
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. This guide is educational and is not a substitute for advice from your veterinarian.
Somewhere in the first months of life, your puppy’s mouth becomes a construction site. Needle-sharp baby teeth loosen and fall out, adult teeth push through, and the gums ache. Chewing relieves that, which is why the leg of your dining chair suddenly looks irresistible.
Choosing puppy teething toys is partly about comfort and partly about damage control, for both your belongings and your puppy’s mouth. The wrong toy can crack a tooth, break into swallowable chunks, or get ignored in favor of your shoes. This guide explains what teething involves, how to test a toy for hardness and size, which items belong on the avoid list, and when a chewing problem is really a vet question.
Quick Answer
Good puppy teething toys are soft enough to dent with a fingernail, too large to swallow, and sturdy enough not to tear into pieces. Chilled rubber or a damp, cooled washcloth can soothe gums. Skip hard bones, antlers, hooves, and anything rock-hard. Supervise chewing, and call the vet about bleeding gums or baby teeth that do not fall out.
What Teething Actually Involves
Puppies are born without visible teeth. Baby teeth erupt in the first weeks, and an adult dog ends up with more teeth than a puppy: roughly 42 versus 28. The swap usually starts somewhere around the third or fourth month and continues for several months, but individual puppies vary, and breed and size play a part. Do not worry if your puppy does not match a chart.
You may notice drooling, red or slightly swollen gums, and a sudden increase in gnawing. A little pink on a toy is common when a tooth is loosening. You might also find a tiny tooth on the floor, although many get swallowed harmlessly.
Chewing does not end with teething. Many dogs keep chewing through adolescence because it is natural, entertaining, and self-soothing. That is useful to remember: the toys and habits you set up now will matter for months beyond the last baby tooth.
The Fingernail Test and Other Hardness Checks
Hardness is the main thing to judge. Dental fractures in dogs often come from chewing items that are harder than teeth are built to handle, and a puppy’s new adult teeth are still maturing. A widely used rule of thumb: if you press a fingernail into the surface and it does not leave a dent, the item may be too hard for a teething puppy.
Run these checks on every toy before you hand it over:
- Press and bend. Good teething toys flex or give under pressure. If it feels like a rock or a piece of plastic pipe, put it back.
- Drop it. A toy that clangs on a hard floor is too hard to chew comfortably.
- Pull at seams. Stitching, glued parts, and attached squeakers are weak points. Tug on them.
- Check for loose bits. Eyes, bells, ribbons, and plastic buttons come off easily on soft toys.
- Read the size label. Compare it to your puppy’s expected adult size, not only their weight today.
For deeper guidance on inspection, our guide on when to throw away a dog toy shows what damage means a toy has reached the end of its life.
Which Toy Type Does What
Different textures answer different needs. Some puppies like to gnaw something firm, others like to shred, and others want to hold something wet and cold. Use this table to pick two or three types rather than one big pile.
| Toy type | Why it helps | What to watch |
|---|---|---|
| Soft rubber with some give | Gentle resistance for sore gums, durable enough for gnawing | Replace when chunks tear off or the surface cracks |
| Textured teether with ridges or nubs | Massages gums and gives something to work against | Small ridges can trap debris; wash often |
| Rubber toy that can be filled and chilled | Cool relief and occupies a puppy for longer | Do not freeze rock-hard; supervise |
| Soft plush or fabric toys | Comforting to carry and cuddle | Not for chewers; stuffing and squeakers can be swallowed |
| Rope toys | Good for tugging with you | Strands can be swallowed; discard when frayed |
| Edible chews | Hold a puppy’s interest | Size, digestibility, and calories matter; pieces can break off, so supervise and ask your vet which are suitable |
If your puppy shreds everything within minutes, jump to our guide to safe chew toys for power chewers once the baby teeth are behind you, since the criteria change as jaw strength increases.
Chilled Works, Frozen Solid Does Not
Cold numbs and soothes. A common trick is to wet a clean washcloth, twist it into a rope, and chill it in the fridge or briefly in the freezer. Another is to put a rubber toy in the fridge. The coolness helps with swollen gums.
The catch is hardness. Anything frozen solid is, well, solid. A fully frozen toy or large ice block can become hard enough to hurt tender gums or tooth enamel, so stop at chilled or lightly frozen, and always stay present while the puppy chews it.
Advantages
- Chilled toys and damp cloths soothe sore gums, cost almost nothing, and keep a puppy busy during an uncomfortable stretch.
- Fillable rubber toys give a puppy something to work at and can slow down a hectic evening.
Drawbacks
- Rock-hard frozen items can be too hard on baby and adult teeth and may be too big to hold comfortably.
- Cloth that gets shredded can be swallowed, so take it away once threads loosen or pieces come off.
Getting the Size Right So Nothing Is Swallowed
Size is a safety feature. A toy that is too small can lodge in the throat or slip down the digestive tract. A reasonable rule: the toy should be larger than the back of your puppy’s mouth, and it should not fit entirely inside it. Pick it up and imagine your puppy’s jaw around it. If there is any doubt, go bigger.
Pay attention to what happens as the toy wears. A big toy that gets chewed into small pieces becomes a small hazard, so inspect after every session. Rope toys deserve extra scrutiny because unraveled strings can be swallowed and may cause serious problems that need veterinary care.
Keep toys that are not designed for unsupervised chewing out of the crate when you are away, and check with your vet if you are unsure what is appropriate for your puppy’s breed and size. For a general starting kit, the puppy supplies checklist shows how many toys you actually need on day one.
Things to Keep Away From a Teething Puppy
Some items look like natural chews but cause real injuries.
- Hard bones. Cooked bones can splinter, and many raw or smoked bones are hard enough to fracture teeth.
- Antlers and hooves. Very hard and a well-known cause of broken teeth. Veterinarians often warn against them.
- Hard nylon or plastic chews. If a fingernail cannot dent it, it is risky for teeth.
- Sticks and rocks. Splinters, mouth punctures, and fractured teeth are all possible.
- Ice cubes in large chunks. Hard enough to chip small teeth.
- Old socks and shoes. They teach your puppy that your belongings are chew toys.
- Anything small enough to swallow. Including pieces broken off larger toys.
A particular word on edible chews: some are digestible and made for puppies, and others are hard, dense, or likely to break into large pieces. If you are unsure about a product, ask your vet which types they recommend for your puppy’s size, and keep in mind that edible chews add calories. The Merck Veterinary Manual’s ASPCA general dog care guidance include background on dental development if you want a medical reference.
Redirecting Chewing Without Scolding
Teething puppies cannot choose not to chew. The practical approach is to make the right object easier and more rewarding than the wrong one.
When you catch your puppy on a table leg, calmly interrupt, offer an approved toy, and praise as soon as they take it. Keep a toy in every room where the puppy spends time. Rotate toys every few days so they feel new. Limit what is accessible by using a pen or closed doors, which is easier than constant correction. Our guide to puppy proofing your home explains how to remove the most tempting targets.
Tired puppies chew more destructively, so after a play session, give a quiet chew in a calm spot, such as the crate or pen. The ASPCA general dog care guidance cover redirection techniques that fit with this approach. Avoid scolding or physically punishing a puppy for chewing. It teaches them to hide, not to stop.
Picture a four-month-old who destroys a couch cushion every time you step into the kitchen. Moving the cushion is the first fix. The second is leaving a chilled rubber toy in a pen for the minutes you are busy, and the third is a short walk or play session before you cook. Together they solve what no scolding would.
When the Vet Should Look at Your Puppy’s Mouth
Most teething is routine, but some signs warrant a call. Contact your veterinarian if you see heavy or continuous bleeding, a swollen face, pus, a foul smell, a puppy who refuses to eat or drops food, or a tooth that looks cracked.
Another common issue is retained baby teeth: a baby tooth stays in place while the adult tooth comes in beside it. This is more common in some small breeds, and it can crowd the mouth and trap food. If you see two teeth in one spot, mention it at the next visit. Your vet may recommend removing the baby tooth, sometimes timed with another procedure under anesthesia. Do not try to pull a stubborn tooth at home.
The ASPCA general dog care guidance are a reliable place to read about when oral changes need prompt attention, and our first vet visit checklist includes a prompt to ask about teething and dental development.
Teething Mistakes That Cost Teeth or Furniture
Most problems trace back to a few patterns. Buying hard “durable” toys because the puppy chewed a soft one apart is the classic. A puppy with sore gums should get gentle chew, not tougher. Another is offering one toy at a time and then being surprised when the puppy picks something else. Giving a puppy a large chew and leaving the room is a third: supervision matters most with new items, and it is the minutes you are not watching that produce the problem.
Washing matters too. Soft toys and textured rubber hold drool and dirt, and an unwashed teether can harbor bacteria. Rinse rubber toys with warm soapy water and let them dry before chilling.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does puppy teething last?
It generally spans several months, starting around the third or fourth month, but the timing differs by puppy and breed. If you are unsure whether your puppy’s mouth looks normal, your vet can check it during a routine visit.
Are bully sticks and other natural chews safe for teething puppies?
Some are digestible and some are very hard or break into big chunks. Because they vary, ask your vet which are appropriate for your puppy’s size, and supervise closely. Count the calories in your daily total.
Should I let my puppy chew on ice cubes?
Large hard cubes can chip small teeth, and ice offers little else a puppy can chew productively. A chilled rubber toy or damp washcloth is a more reliable choice.
My puppy’s gums bled a little. Is that normal?
A small amount of pink or a drop on a toy can happen when a tooth is loosening. Heavy, repeated, or persistent bleeding, or any sign of pain or swelling, should be checked.
Do I need to clean puppy teething toys?
Yes. Wash rubber and textured toys with warm soapy water, rinse well, and let them dry. Machine-wash fabric toys if the label says it is safe.
Can I give my puppy toys meant for adult dogs?
Only if they are the right size and hardness for a puppy. Adult toys are often firmer, which can be hard on developing teeth. Choose puppy-specific or soft options until the adult teeth have settled in.
Make the Right Toy the Easy Choice
Put two or three toys of different textures in the room where your puppy spends the most time, then put your own belongings out of reach. When the puppy picks up the right object, reward the choice with calm praise.
Keep a note of the toys that survive a week intact and the ones that do not. Within a month you will know your puppy’s style, and you can shop from evidence instead of guesswork.